Arrival

Got into Amman at 2:30 this morning, on a much delayed flight. My ride from the airport was also significantly delayed, so I didn't get to my apartment until 6AM or so. The time change was killer, but with half a bottle of Tylenol PM, I should be over it soon.

Still getting my bearings in this city. The drive to my apartment wasn't a great orientation. I am staying between 5th and 6th circles, very close to the American embassy (to the delight of my mother), on a street that has no name. I'm renting a room in a beautiful house, which is quite a step up from my accommodations at AUC in Cairo. Seems like a very ritzy area - lots of Mercedeses and BMWs parked in driveways, all of the houses have big gates and grand facades. I can't believe I'm paying as little as I am to be in this area. It requires a cab ride to and from school, but even with that factored in each day, I'm saving a bundle over the apartments that Qasid rents.

After sleeping for a few hours, I unpacked and showered before heading into the city to explore. Seisei, the woman who is renting me my place, gave me a brief overview and sent me on my way. I hopped a cab to the first circle (closest to downtown) and walked around a bit, grabbed a meal in a local cafe, and walked along some main streets before hiking up to the Citadel.

Already, the city has made a good impression on me. When I compare it to Cairo, the only other Arab city where I've lived for a considerable period of time, the contrast is certainly a positive one. I'm staying in a ritzy area, but even downtown, things were cleaner and in better repair. Taxis are metered (and cheap!), and the cars themselves were in much better condition. Traffic was light (though it is the weekend), especially compared to the chronic congestion all over Cairo. Stop lights work and are respected. Street signs are prominent. If one compares the Cairo and Amman Citadels, the latter seems far better maintained. Signs are accurate, entrances and guardhouses are new and clean, and I wasn't harassed by anyone looking to sell me tourist crap. Cairo definitely beats Amman when it comes to the views at its Citadel, with the pyramids in the distance and the Muhammad Ali Mosque. But Amman, though blessed with a less architecturally inspiring site, certainly seems to take better care of what it has. These are, of course, impressions from a single afternoon of wandering. By next week, I may have changed my views completely.

Overall, I'm getting a very strong Jerusalem vibe from this place. It's very hilly, just like Jerusalem, and much of the building stock is boxy/rectangular and covered with the same beige stone. People leave you alone when you walk down the street. Omnipresent pictures of the King don't let me forget where I am for too long, though.

With regard to Arabic, I haven't gotten much practice. I asked several times in Arabic for specific directions to "Jebel Al-Qalaa," the Citadel, and everyone answered in English. I guess I'm pretty obviously a tourist. Considering that my speaking skills are my weakest linguistic link, I'm hoping this changes - I need the practice speaking!

I still need to stay up another hour before going to bed, so I deal with the time change correctly. Orientation for the Qasid program starts tomorrow - time to get busy!